During the Haute Couture week in Paris in July 2023, Chanel presented the new High Jewelry collection “TWEED DE CHANEL”. Inspired by one of the major elements of the house’s style, tweed, this is the second time that Studio de Creation Joaillerie de Chanel has interpreted this precious fabric. Inspired by the richness of its weaves, transforming tweed into a precious material, the house of Chanel resigned an ode to tweed with this new chapter of High Jewelry.
In 2020, tweed entered the world of CHANEL jewelry with a first collection of 45 exceptional pieces, reproducing suppleness to perfection. In 2023, for the second time, Patrice Leguéreau has rediscovered the wonder of tweed to imagine 63 new High Jewelry pieces.
« For this new High Jewelry collection dedicated to Tweed, I wanted to go further in the interpretation by creating a veritable fabric of precious stones that is light and supple. »
Patrice Leguéreau, Director of the CHANEL Fine Jewelry Creation Studio.
In 2023 the tweed is different, more dynamic with more details and more generous with more colors. It is sometimes represented and sometimes simply evoked. This collection unveils five new jeweled tweed weaves in five different colors and adorned with five icons dear to Gabrielle Chanel: the white ribbon, the pink camellia, the comet on a blue background, the yellow sun and the lion enhanced with flamboyant red. The new “TWEED DE CHANEL” collection calls upon gold, pearls and precious stones to sublimate them thanks to jeweler know-how: redesigned settings to fade away more in front of the stone, enamelling of gold or platinum threads which, by creating tiny hinges, rings or articulations, make it possible to structure each creation with flexibility. Airy and random, the weft of the tweed is fringed and lightened; graphic and symmetrical, it is structured and enriched to create a real jeweler’s fabric. The intertwining of materials, the variation in stone sizes and the openwork sets recreate the thickness of tweed. While its comfort and softness is found in the specific work of the back of each piece.
Present in CHANEL Haute Couture collections from the outset, both as a fastening and as an embellishment, ribbon is a feature of the “TWEED DE CHANEL” Collection. Interlacing with the threads of the fabric, gently adding softness to the weave, it highlights its texture and intertwining to create a monochrome tweed, ultra-supple and laced with openwork, gleaming with cultured pearls and shimmering with diamonds set in white gold.
An icon in Gabrielle Chanel’s style for the liberated woman, the camellia is also a symbol of delicacy and distinction. For the “TWEED DE CHANEL” Collection, the geometrical perfection of the camellia flower is etched in rose gold embroideries set with powder-pink and fuchsia sapphires against a textured weave. Playing on transparencies and contrasts, this is a fabric that is uncompromising in its elegance.
An emblem of “Bijoux de Diamants”, the first and only High Jewelry collection created by Gabrielle Chanel in 1932, the comet motif is eternally modern, endowed with a potent and mysterious aesthetic power. The “TWEED DE CHANEL” Collection interprets the depths of the starry night sky through a great density of precious stones in strong shades: the weave in black and blue is embellished with yellow diamonds and sapphires, like a night sky studded with tiny stars.
From her apartment on rue Cambon to her Haute Couture collections, Gabrielle Chanel’s world was punctuated by images of the sun, inextricably linked to the lion, her star sign. In the “TWEED DE CHANEL” collection, the sun beams in a glittering tweed that alternates large volumes and plays on transparency. The crystalline precious stones set in a weave of yellow gold form a dazzling evocation of Byzantine and Venetian magnificence.
Majestic, fearless and instinctive, the lion, Gabrielle Chanel’s star sign, became her emblem. Later on, it would also become the emblem of CHANEL High Jewelry. For the “TWEED DE CHANEL” collection, the tweed of precious stones takes its inspiration from the lion to adorn itself in vibrant shades of red and orange and sunny yellows, creating embroidered textures, braided with chains and embellished with roaring patterns, as precious as it is sensory.