Haute Couture Spring / Summer 2020 week took place in Paris from January 20 to 23, 2020. When haute couture houses present their new creations, it always rhymes with high jewelry. This privileged moment where VIP customers, buyers and journalists from all over the world meet is unique for the world capital of haute couture. Certain houses in Place Vendôme and independent designers have unveiled their latest collections. So who was the most beautiful, the most interesting and the most creative in high jewelry at the start of the year?
Tweed of Chanel
Chanel unveiled for the first time a high jewelry collection of forty-five exceptional pieces entirely dedicated to tweed. L’Atelier de Haute Joaillerie has developed specific gold swirling techniques to translate the irregular appearance of the tweed so dear to Gabrielle Chanel. Diamonds, pearls, sapphires are worked on several levels thus offering necklaces, rings and bracelets textured effects of incredible richness. The clean lines of each creation reinforce the graphic power of these exceptional weavings, entirely shaped by hand. Adorned with stones and diamonds, tweed becomes a precious material and expresses all of the strength, know-how and creativity of Chanel Haute Joaillerie.
Dior et Moi
Inspired by the jewelry “toi et moi”, Victoire de Castellane imagines Dior et Moi, a new collection of high jewelry that brings together precious stones. Thirty-nine creations reinterpret these emblematic duets. Far from the traditions, the rings between the fingers, the rushes, the necklaces and the earrings dare new associations of colors, proportions and forms. Lacquer is also invited in these compositions, and is available in fifteen new coloramas. Sprayed on brushed gold, it redraws each stone with its intense shine and nuances. Diamonds, emeralds, blue or pink sapphires, cut in brilliant, pear, cushion and oval, joyfully oppose red spinels, tourmalines, rubellites, kunzites, turquoises, opals and pearls. Victory of Castellane’s fetish, the opal is also staged in an XXL version. Asymmetrical, the brightly colored earrings, ranging from green to pink, reveal their playful and contemporary character. Each piece is worked on the front and back sides, like secret jewelry.
Welcome to The New York
With its emblematic monuments and its frantic pace, New York is unique. This fantastic megalopolis, where glamor mingles with hectic activity, has been a source of inspiration for Winston designers since the opening of the Maison’s first salon in 1932. Winston designers have explored for this new collection all the opportunities that ‘offers the city and embarking on an urban journey to discover neighborhoods, colors and historic places that have marked the life of Mr. Winston. Presented in nine paintings, the collection is a true declaration of love for the city that never sleeps. Made in platinum and adorned with the most beautiful gems in the world, the New York collection is an exercise in successful style where modernity is anchored in the roots of the House. Each painting in the collection embodies the diversity and creativity of jewelry, exceptional know-how and setting methods that make the reputation of the House. Winston’s New York reveals the Brownstones of his birthplace on the Upper West Side, the color palette and organic geometry of Central Park, the lights of the Manhattan skyline, the remarkable architecture of the cathedrals of the city, the lively alleys, and the emblematic salon of 5th avenue.
David Morris celebrates a new decade with Electric Geometric, a high jewelery collection made up of unique pieces. The geometric and graphic patterns are made thanks to their exceptional jewelry expertise. Creative Director Jeremy Morris drew his inspiration from the delicate and organic forms specific to the natural world to reinterpret them in geometric patterns with sharp and sharp angles. The two cuff bracelets in the collection also testified to the virtuosity of the Maison’s jewelry expertise. The Sunrise cuff is a stylized and contemporary interpretation of the first rays of the sun appearing on the horizon. Its refined composition, creating a subtle contrast between stones and metal. Over 2,000 white diamonds seem to float lightly on the surface of the creation. The hexagonal pattern, inspired by the Hexagon cuff, is widely represented in the natural world. This piece required more than two years of research and work; many white and pink diamonds have been cut “on the work” to achieve perfect symmetry and position themselves in the tiny “cells”. The bracelet is fully articulated and flexible and each cell is independent of the others.
Venus & Mars
During haute couture week, Parisian designer Ilona Orel presented the new fine jewelry collection “Venus & Mars” made up of fifteen pieces, entirely made in Paris. Prince, the pop icon for an entire generation and his Love Symbol inspired Ilona Orel for this meaningful collection. In “Venus & Mars” the symbol Mars, a circle surmounted by an arrow, expresses the masculine gender. The Venus symbol, a circle surmounted by a cross, is the expression of the goddess of love, femininity, fertility and life. These two symbols follow one another endlessly and come together to celebrate love. The meeting of these precious symbols is underlined by the beauty of an Akoya pearl, whose soft roundness represents the perfect circle. This brilliant gem with a white sparkle of purity goes perfectly with yellow and white gold.
The next Haute Couture week will take place from Sunday July 5 to Thursday July 9, 2020 in Paris.