Goldsmiths’ Fair is the premier UK showcase for contemporary jewellery and silver organised by the Goldsmiths’ Company and open for the public. It is a celebration of British goldsmithing and silversmithing talent. This unique a hub of creativity, design innovation and outstanding craftsmanship takes place at Goldsmiths’ Hall, in the heart of the City of London. In 2019 Goldsmiths’ Fair features 126 designer-craftsmen from independent workshops. If you read our webzine you are familiar with Goldsmiths fair because we already talked here about edition in 2018.
This year I was invited to participate in panel with Joanne from A thousand facets, jewelry blog based in USA. Talk animated by David Mills, Director of Events and Promotion at Golsmiths, was about our experience as a jewelry blogger. Sunday 29 september in beautiful Court Room, we explain how we work with designers and brands and how we support them every day through our social media chanels or webmagazines. It was truly interesting moment and pure bliss to share our story with public who was really involved in this topic.
I had a chance to stay in London a bit longer so I could visit this fair during two weeks. Few new talents, some old friends and lots of jewelry handcrafted seen at 63 stands during first week and others 63 stands during week 2. Here we are some trends that I spotted during my visit:
1/ unusual cuts of gemstones
Yen Duong present new ring, made in collaboration with Mark Nuell. The central stone is freeform faceted 28.60 carats Morganite. This stone which has random facets with an uneven (zigzag) girdle is beautifully combining with Yen’s signature molecule setting.
Anton Kata showed me “Asteria” Ring. Named for the Goddess of starlight and dreams, the central amethyst exudes an otherworldy quality, its facets drawing you in to another dimension. Uniquely cut by lapidary craftsmen, this stone is a one of a kind piece and set with diamond encrusted details.
On the both of McCaul Goldsmiths I was stopped by this stunning ring. This yellow gold and amethyst cocktail ring combines a gorgeous purple amethyst with generous amounts of 18-carat yellow gold in a fluidly curved, asymmetric design. This hand-carved creation was designed to accommodate a one-of-a-kind fancy cut coloured deep purple 16.5 carat amethyst.
2/ unusual materials
Donna Brennan show her triptych ‘Altered States’ 3 broochs set
18ct Gold, Dye Sublimation Lucite , mother-of-pearl Quartz and Freshwater Pearls. “Altered States” explores the materiality of a 2D image by adding an embellished 3D dimension which has been extracted and crafted – or ‘borrowed’ from the photographic image upon which it is mounted. The dye sublimated images are laminated with a faceted lucite facade and set in 18ct Gold, which acts as a beacon for the interplay of light and imparts a sense of intrigue.
Romilly Saumarez-Smith’s miniature artworks are made from detritus found by mudlarks and metal detectorists that she has snapped up on eBay like this shell pendant. Romilly works in gold and silver and uses diamonds mainly in the form of beads. Before a piece is actually made, because she can no longer use her hands, it has spent a great deal of time in her head, where she tries out different shapes and combinations of materials.
3/enamel
Fred Rich is well established as one of Britain’s most dynamic art enamellers and produces magnificent pieces of enamelled silverware and 18 ct gold jewellery . Fred describes his style of enamelling as a hybrid of cloisonné, basse taille, and champleve – enamel on an engraved, carved, or etched surface. One of my favorite ring is this Aquamarine and diamond ring. Commissioned as a statement dress ring incorporating small aquamarines from the client’s mother’s brooch. This ring is set in 18ct gold with diamonds, aquamarines and enamel with 22ct gold cloissons.
Alexandra Raphael has perfected the ancient craft of enamelling over many years. Specialising in Plique-à-jour and cloisonné jewellery, Alexandra’s unique and personal work is very colorful. Brilliant reflections of colored glass across the silver and gold mixing with gemstones gave the joyful pieces of art to wear every day.
4/ Pearls
I always look at pearl jewelry as I truly love this organic material . Leonid Dementiev unveiled new pieces with beautiful baroque pearls set in gold with his own unique style.
Sonia Cheadle opted for facetted pearls set in open rings. Tina Engell mixed beautiful South Sea pearls with dreamy luster with pear-cut tourmalines set in gold.
