This spring and summer, the Petit Palais unveils a dazzling new exhibition that offers more than just beauty—it reveals the creative secrets behind some of the most exquisite jewels of the 19th and 20th centuries. From 1 April to 20 July 2025, Jewellery Designs. Secrets of the Creation invites visitors into a rarely seen realm, where imagination, artistry, and craftsmanship converge.
At the heart of the exhibition lies an exceptional selection of jewelry design drawings, part of a 5,500-piece collection held quietly in the museum’s reserves for decades. Through this graphic treasure trove, visitors are introduced to the visual poetry of houses like Cartier, Boucheron, Lalique, Vever, and Rouvenat, as well as individual designers such as Pierre-Georges Deraisme and Charles Jacqueau. These works trace more than a century of evolving styles, from naturalistic Art Nouveau curves to the geometric elegance of Art Deco.
Structured around four thematic sections, the exhibition begins by diving into the rich sources of inspiration—floral forms, global ornamentation, and decorative motifs. Sketches, motif plates, and precious design books transport visitors into the creative universes of visionary artists. The second section highlights the technical process, from spontaneous pencil strokes to polished gouache renderings, often executed in 1:1 scale. A specially produced video filmed at the Haute École de Joaillerie in Paris beautifully illustrates the precision and grace of gouache drawing—a craft that continues to preserve tradition while fuelling innovation.
Beyond the sketches, the exhibition comes alive with magnificent jewelry pieces placed alongside their original designs, revealing the transformation from idea to object. Among the showstoppers are the “Fuchsias” necklace (ca. 1905) by Georges Fouquet, based on a drawing by Charles Desrosiers—a masterpiece of Art Nouveau elegance. From the legendary Cartier Collection, the “Drapery” brooch (1922) and the striking “Chimera” bracelet (1928) showcase the bold sophistication that defined the maison during the interwar years. These pieces are not only iconic; they are living testaments to the dialogue between paper and precious metal, design and craftsmanship.
As a final surprise, visitors are encouraged to explore the Petit Palais’s permanent collections, where the museum’s own jewelry holdings—rarely displayed—reveal even more treasures. Three particularly breathtaking pieces include Lucien Falize’s turquoise, diamond and gold bracelet (c. 1880–1897), and an enamel and pearl necklace attributed to Falize (c. 1880–1890), both remarkable for their refinement and craftsmanship. And finally, René Lalique’s enchanting “Wood Anemone” pendant (c. 1900), in gold, enamel, diamonds and pâte de verre, captures the delicate soul of the Art Nouveau movement like few others can.
Whether you’re a seasoned collector, a student of design, or a curious lover of beauty, Jewellery Designs. Secrets of the Creation is more than an exhibition—it is a poetic immersion into the creative heartbeat of jewelry. A journey not to be missed.
