Boucheron, the prestigious French jewelry house, unveils its latest high jewelry collection during Paris Haute Couture week, “Or Bleu,” as part of the 2024 Carte Blanche series. Directed by Claire Choisne, this collection is more than an exhibition of exquisite craftsmanship; it is a poetic homage to the essence of water, drawing inspiration from the powerful and untamed waters of Iceland. The “Or Bleu” collection is a manifestation of Choisne’s deep appreciation for water as a vital, precious resource. The pieces are designed to capture the dynamic beauty and fluidity of water in its various forms, from cascading waterfalls to the serene stillness of ice. This collection features 26 unique creations, each embodying a different aspect of water’s memory, texture, and movement.
A Journey Through Icelandic Waters
Choisne’s inspiration stems from the rugged Icelandic landscape, where water plays a central role in shaping the environment. The collection’s centerpiece, the “Cascade” necklace, is a striking interpretation of a waterfall’s descent. Made of white gold and diamonds, this 148 cm long necklace, the longest ever created by Boucheron, is designed to mimic the fluid motion of water. The necklace can be transformed into a shorter piece, with detachable earrings, showcasing Boucheron’s expertise in creating multi-functional high jewelry.
The “Ondes” set, which includes a necklace and rings, captures the moment a droplet disturbs the calm surface of water, creating ripples that radiate outward. Crafted from rock crystal and diamonds, these pieces are a technical marvel. The Boucheron studio used advanced 3D software to simulate the organic movement of water, translating it into finely sculpted jewelry. The necklace, designed to be worn as a second skin, features 4,542 invisibly set diamonds beneath the rock crystal, a testament to the meticulous craftsmanship involved.
The Dark and Mysterious Waters
While much of the collection celebrates the clarity and lightness of water, Choisne also explores its darker, more mysterious aspects. The “Eau d’Encre” set, consisting of a bracelet and ring, draws inspiration from the inky black waters of Iceland. These pieces are crafted from obsidian, a volcanic glass known for its deep, rich black color. The bracelet, made from two identical blocks of obsidian, is designed to mimic the movement of water, with a snow-set of diamonds providing a striking contrast to the dark stone.
Similarly, the “Eau Forte” bracelet captures the moment a wave is about to crash, using a traditional engraving technique called “eau-forte” to create a relief pattern on the white gold surface. This piece combines the artistry of engraving with modern laser printing technology, resulting in a bracelet that is both a visual and tactile representation of a wave’s power.
Frozen in Time
The collection also pays tribute to the frozen beauty of water in its solid state. The “Iceberg” necklace and earrings are inspired by the shimmering ice formations found on Iceland’s black sand beaches. The rock crystal used in these pieces has been frosted to replicate the appearance of ice, with diamonds set in a way that they seem to float within the crystal.
The “Ciel de Glace” bracelet takes this concept further by emulating the intricate patterns and colors of Icelandic ice caves. Carved from a single block of rock crystal, the bracelet features a gradient of blue sapphires and diamonds, evoking the mesmerizing hues of glacial ice.
“Or Bleu” is not just a collection of high jewelry; it is a narrative woven through precious materials and masterful craftsmanship, celebrating the beauty and power of water. Each piece in this collection tells a story of nature’s most vital element, immortalized in gold, diamonds, and crystal. With “Or Bleu,” Boucheron once again pushes the boundaries of creativity, offering a collection that is as much a work of art as it is a tribute to the timeless beauty of water.
