Always looking for novelties and trends in jewelry, today I propose a focus on a warm and warm material: wood. The man has made wooden jewelry since always. Pretty easy to work, the wood obviously allows to play with volumes and colors. The material is sensual, as strong as it is fragile, and despite its paradoxes it seduces with softness to the touch. Sensitive to variations in humidity and temperature, wood requires vigilance and time to tame it.
The wooden jewels were very fashionable among the jewelers of the Place Vendôme between the years 1970 and 1990. Then this material fell a little in forgetting except for the jewels fantasy or ethnic which constantly resorted to this sensual matter and precious. The contrast with the coldness of the metal brings out real preciousness and natural beauty. I see that for some time this beautiful essence resurfaced and returns to jewelry either by small touches or XXL version. This is how American walnut, African blackwood, ebony or floating wood have their place in today’s jewelery markets. The trend is back to basics and a preference for natural and sustainable materials make customers appreciate this noble material. Let’s take a closer look at who uses this living matter in contemporary jewelry, from big houses to independent designers, a panorama of precious woods is in order.
In 2013 Van Cleef & Arpels reissued the bangles of the 1970s by offering the “Believe in luck” bracelets. To achieve his creations, the jeweler has allied himself with a cabinetmaker recognized for his work. Different species have been used to create this model: bayong, amaranth or ebony.
The French jewelery brand, Goralska, celebrates the millenary olive tree that embodies the persistence in being and the universal dream of peace. In addition to cherishing this tree, the designer Corinne Evens used cabochon-shaped wood set with diamonds, opals and sapphires in her voluptuous rings, earrings or necklaces from the Olivier Ébène collection. The contrast between 18K yellow gold and the almost black color of ebony is very interesting and powerful.
Jean Grisoni uses both ebony and driftwood in his contemporary jewelry. The mixture with silver or gold of this fragile material, often found at the beach, is unexpected but almost usual in the creation of this lover of the Mediterranean. The wood follows the metal chains to become the imposing jewel, graphic and contrasting.
The Italian jeweler Vhernier is inspired by nature, plays with color, and does not forget the precious wood in his generous creations. In the Calla line, ebony, studded with diamonds, contrasts perfectly with gold in earrings or bracelets.
Sarah Besnainou, the creator of the brand Eternamé draws her inspiration in fashion and love and doesn’t forbiden its reinterpretation of the classics of Haute Joaillerie. The Noor collection reflects the contrasting world of Eternamé with the successful blend of precious materials. The imposing Noor cuffs in ebony with a hint of gold or a hint of gemstone color, evoke the good taste and timeless style of the designer trained and inspired by haute couture.
Lebanese jeweler Selim Mouzannar uses wood in his Link line and offers jewelry that symbolizes the bond that binds human beings to each other. The raw effect of ebony and blackened silver, combined with the refinement of white, gray, brown or black diamonds, creates an intriguing and atypical result in its bracelets and necklaces.
